Contact us

animalcliniceq@windstream.net

Equestrian Woods

  • (859) 224-1418
  • Mon-Fri 8:00 - 6:00
    Saturday 8:00 - Noon

Wilmore

  • (859) 858-3613
  • Monday 9:00 - 5:00
    Tuesday 9:00 - 6:00
    Wednesday - Closed
    Thursday 9:00 - 5:00
    Friday 9:00 - Noon
    Saturday 9:00 - Noon

Recent updates

Revised April 2010

Animal clinic puppy information

Puppy/dog counseling


Are you looking for a dog? - Click here for a few breeds you may want to consider.

Need help choosing that new puppy? - Click here for simple way to evaluate a puppy’s personality.

Which breed is right for you? - Click here for a breed buying tips.

What shots does your new puppy need? - Click here for our recommendations.

Are you looking for a dog? There are a lot of choices available so take some time to determine if the dog will be compatible to your lifestyle. Please remember there is individual variation in all breeds. Also, your local Humane Shelter has a wide variety of homeless dogs looking for a family. We have compiled a list of breeds you may want to consider:
Small breeds (under 25 pounds):
Beagle Shi Tzu
Boston Terrier Poodle
Cairn Terrier Yorkie
Dachshund Pekinese
Corgi Pug
English Cocker Spaniel Fox Terrier
Maltese Pomeranian
Schnauzer

Medium breeds (25 – 50 pounds):
English Springer Shetland Sheepdog
English Setter Standard Schnauzer
Australian Shepherd Standard Poodle
Boarder Collie

Large breeds (over 50 pounds):
Golden Retriever Labrador Retriever
Collie Bull Mastiff
Bernese Mountain Dog St. Bernard
Greyhound Weimaraner
Boxer

Choosing a Puppy

When selecting a new puppy, one of the most important factors to evaluate is personality. Other considerations are breed, size, coat and coat care, and behavioral characteristics of the breed. To evaluate a puppy’s personality, administer the following test (most accurate on pups 7-9 weeks of age):

  1. Attraction to people: Place the pup on the ground in an area free from distractions. Walk a few feet away and squat down. Using a cheerful, happy tone, call the pup to you while clapping your hands and patting the ground. Evaluate the response:
    1. Came readily, jumped on you and may have mouthed your hands.
    2. Came readily, tail up, and climbed into your lap.
    3. Came quickly, tail level or slightly down.
    4. Came hesitantly, may have crawled.
    5. Did not come.
  2. Following: Stand and walk away from the pup without encouragement. Evaluate the response:
    1. Followed closely, tail up and wagging. Chasing your feet.
    2. Followed quickly tail up and staying close.
    3. Followed hesitantly.
    4. Followed slowly, may have crawled.
    5. Did not follow.
  3. Retrieving: Crumple a piece of paper and show it to the pup. When the pup sees the paper, toss it a few feet in front of him. Evaluate the response:
    1. Chases quickly, brings it back, but does not release it to you.
    2. Chases it, brings it back, and releases it to you.
    3. Chases hesitantly, brings it part way back.
    4. Does not chase.
    5. Chases it, but goes off in another direction.
  4. Trainability: Standing up, with the pup’s attention on you, crumple the paper to make a noise to attract the pup. Once you have the pup’s attention, move the paper with the noise toward the tail. Tell the pup to "sit" and praise him if he does, allowing him to play briefly with the paper. Repeat 4-5 times. Evaluate the response:
    1. Jumps on you for the paper.
    2. Jumps on you the first time, but sits quickly on the 2nd or 3rd try.
    3. Sits on the 2nd or 3rd try.
    4. Sits, then lays down.
    5. Walks away.
  5. Social Handling: Pet the pup, stroking the head, neck, shoulders, and back. Touch the ears, muzzle and feet. Evaluate the response:
    1. Jumped at you, growled, or nipped at your hands.
    2. Pawed at your hands, squirmed, tried to climb the front of you.
    3. Wiggled and licked your hands.
    4. Rolled over willingly, baring the belly.
    5. Struggled to get away.
  6. Dominance down: Roll the pup over onto it’s side or back and hold it until it calms. Evaluate the response:
    1. Struggled, tried to bite, growled, and/or cried.
    2. Struggled, may have cried.
    3. Struggled, then calmed.
    4. Did not struggle, licked your hands.
    5. Did not struggle, may have urinated.

SCORING:

Three or more A’s: This pup is dominant and shows aggressive tendencies. It may be a biter. This is not a good pup for first-time owners, for families with children, or for someone with a passive personality.

Three of more B’s or a combination of A’s and B’s: This pup will tend to be outgoing and dominant, may not be good for first time owners or families with children.

Three or more C’s: This pup will adapt to most households, and should be suited for children. This dog should take well to training.

Three or more D’s: This is a submissive dog and will need kind, gentle, and patient training. This dog needs to be protected from rough handling and will respond best to positive training methods.

Three or more E’s or a combination of D’s and E’s: This dog may be antisocial or shy. This pup may bite in stressful situations. This is not a pup for children or first time owners.

 

Breed Buying Tips
from the Bluegrass All-Breed Rescue Club
Below are questions you should ask the breeder before purchasing a puppy. Remember to only buy from a reputable and knowledgeable breeder.

  1. How long have you been breeding this particular breed?
  2. How many other breeds do you have and/or breed? (Watch for people who breed too many different breeds – "puppy-mills")
  3. How many litters do you produce a year? How many does each female produce each year? (Good breeders usually allow the female to deliver back-to-back litters every other year)
  4. What kind of genetic health problems can this breed carry?
  5. What is the lifespan of this breed?
  6. What kind of temperament does this breed have? Are they usually good with children? Other pets?
  7. Are they usually easy to train and housebreak?
  8. Do they have any behavioral problems?
  9. What kind of contract do you offer?

You generally get what you pay for so be prepared to pay the high range for a pure-breed dog from a reputable breeder. The breeder will probably have paid a lot for good quality breeding dogs and taken the necessary tests to make sure the dogs are free from genetic health problems. The breeder should be able to show you proof of these tests, such as OFA certification against hip dysplasia, and CERF certification against eye diseases, depending on the breed you are considering.
Do not purchase a puppy without a health guarantee. This is an investment and will be part of your family for many years. Ideally you should have at least a two year written health guarantee, but DO NOT accept any less than 14 days for communicable diseases such as Parvo and Distemper. The breeder should agree to take back any puppy that he sells if the owner is unable to keep the pup for ANY reason.
Only purchase your puppy from breeders who house all their dogs in sanitary, inviting environments.
The puppies should be available for sale at 8 weeks of age, not before. They should have had their first round of booster shots, been checked by a vet, and dewormed.

 

The Animal Clinic recommends

1st at 6-7 weeks: Distemper/Parvo combo, deworming

2nd at 9 weeks: Distemper/Parvo combo, deworming or microscopic stool check for worms

3rd at 12 weeks: Distemper/Parvo combo, microscopic stool check if needed

4th at 15 weeks: Distemper/Parvo combo, Rabies, Bordetella (kennel cough), microscopic stool check if needed

6-8 months: Spay or Neuter

The breeder should be able to show you the difference between show and pet quality puppies.

Remember, you can always ask for references: other owners the breeder has sold puppies to as well as his regular veterinarian. Be willing to take your time to find the right breed and the right breeder. You may have to be on a waiting list with some breeders. You can always check out any breeder with the Better Business Bureau.